Programs & People, Winter 2004 Issue

You can't judge a burger by its color

burgerSince E. coli-tainted hamburgers started making headlines in 1993, almost all of us have absorbed the advice that a safe burger is one with the pink cooked out of it, a nice brown-inthe- middle burger. “For years we’ve cooked meat by color. Everybody thought color was fine,” said Sandy McCurdy, UI extension food safety specialist, “until somebody did some research.”

That research by the USDA surprised almost everyone by showing that a pink burger can be perfectly done and a brown one not done. Indeed, one out of every four burgers studied by USDA researchers in 1998 turned brown in the middle before reaching 160ºF, the temperature that ensures all pathogens in the meat are dead and the meat is safe to eat. Some patties looked done at temperatures as low as 135ºF!

Ways we judge are unreliable
As it turns out, all the ways we tend to judge the doneness of ground meat patties and thin cuts of meat—color, texture, cooking time—are unreliable. The only sure way to know the meat is cooked to 160ºF, and not overcooked to dry toughness, is to take its temperature.

Very few of us bother, however, with just 3 to 6 percent of households nationally using the instant-read digital or dial thermometers that work in thin cuts of meat such as chicken breasts, sausage patties, and pork chops.

To get more of us to use instant-read thermometers, McCurdy and colleagues at Washington State University have developed an ambitious educational campaign funded by a $374,000 competitive grant from the USDA. Their brochure, video, recipe cards, and poster, as well as their curricula for high school family and consumer science teachers and extension educators, all tout the advantages of thermometer use. Currently, they are sending the materials to home cooks in Idaho and Washington and conducting surveys to find out whether their thermometer use increases.

“I think we have taken on a difficult problem,” McCurdy admits. Focus group participants in Idaho and Washington cited the “hassle” of using the thermometers as a deterrent. “If they have to wait 20 seconds for the temperature to register, that’s annoying.”

Help with speed, reliability, better taste
To help consumers choose the quickest, most reliable instant-read thermometers, McCurdy is measuring the accuracy and response time of a wide range of models.

Her preliminary findings are that some thermometers respond in as few as 8 seconds while some take as long as 33 seconds. Among the best she’s tested so far are several brands of dial thermometers (Acurite model 640W, Good Cook model 25111, and Norpro model 5979), but only one brand of digital thermometer (Redi-Chek model ET-3), which has a 10- to 15-second response time. She plans to make her full findings available to extension educators, and anyone else who requests them, when her study wraps up in January or February. Contact her at smccurdy@uidaho.edu.

McCurdy says she uses a thermometer all the time now, and not least because it makes cooking a chicken breast so much easier. Before, “I’d always be cutting in to see if it was done,” she said. Now, she can tell exactly when her meat is ready, neither undercooked nor overcooked. By taking meat off the heat in time, says McCurdy, you’re not only keeping yourself safe, “You’re going to have better-tasting, juicier meat.”

 

 

Burger Flipping 101
What’s the quickest way to cook a burger to 160ºF throughout? When WSU and UI researchers studied the matter recently, the double-sided, clam-shell-style grill smoked the competition, cooking a burger in just 2.7 minutes.

In pans or single-sided grills, the secret to speedy and even cooking turned out to be frequent turning. Burgers flipped every 30 seconds were uniformly done in 6.6 minutes.

Burgers flipped just once during cooking, in contrast, took a full 10.9 minutes.

End-point temperatures for thin meats
Note: All bad bacteria die by 160ºF. The higher end-point temperatures recommended for poultry have to do with palatability, not safety.

The USDA has yet to study fish temperatures, so for salmon, and other fish, flaky texture and opaque look remain the best gauge.

160ºF Ground beef, lamb, veal, and pork
          Pork
          Ham
          Game meat
165ºF Ground turkey and chicken
170ºF Chicken and turkey breasts

 

 

Using instant-read thermometers for thin meats

Instant-read dial thermometers are inserted 2 to 3 inches into the meat. Instant-read digital thermometers are inserted at least 1/2 inch into the meat.

step oneSTEP ONE
Insert the probe into the side of the meat, at least 2 to 3 inches for dial thermometers and at least 1/2 inch for digital thermometers. (You may need to pick up the meat with a spatula or tongs to take its temperature.)

step twoSTEP TWO
Wait 15 to 20 seconds for the temperature to stabilize.

 

 

step threeSTEP THREE
Clean the thermometer between uses by rinsing it under hot running water for 5 seconds and wiping it with a clean paper towel.

 

 

--Diane Noel (photos by Kelly Weaver, UI Photo Services)

© 2003 University of Idaho, College of Agricultural and Life Sciences.

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